Four days in Freiburg

02Dec11

When I heard that my friend Jan Gregersen had left Paris and moved to Freiburg, I thought he’d gone mad. Who in their right mind would leave one the of world’s great cities for a (relatively) sleepy German town?

On Monday, I set out to find out.

I’d intended to spend only a day or two in Freiburg, just long enough to catch up with Jan. But thanks to an impulsive decision—and a series of train mix-ups—I ended up spending four days. And I don’t regret a single minute.

Freiburg im Briesgau lies near the southernmost border between France and Germany, not far from Strasbourg. But unlike Strasbourg, Freiburg (which means “free town” in German) has not taken on the multicultural flavor of a contested-border town: As you walk through the historic central district, you know you’re in Germany.

This fact led to a bit of culture shock at first. I’ve managed to learn a few phrases in German, but I’m still pretty helpless. And the food seemed so … well, unfamiliar. But I have to admit that the ubiquitous wursts were delicious.

Same goes for this custard-like dessert, which was so rich I could only handle two bites.

Freiburg was heavily bombed during World War II, so the outlying neighborhoods are modern. But some of the ancient, medieval center of the city survived and is beautifully preserved.

I was especially intrigued by the bächle, a network of small canals that were once used for firefighting.

Legend says that if you fall into the bächle you will marry a Freiburger. If that’s true, these kids should just call a minister and get it over with.

I loved the cobbled sidewalks’ intricate stone mosaics. I tried to ask the locals about the significance, but I couldn’t fully understand their answers. Sigh.

I also enjoyed visiting the Christmas markets. One takes place during the day, in the shadow of the Münster. The other—held at night, in the shopping district—is a slightly more rowdy affair, with lots of bratwurst and beer and mulled wine.

As beautiful and wonderful as the city may be, though, what I liked most was the people: Everyone seemed so welcoming and friendly. And I loved hanging out with Jan and his friends.

I got to hear some absolutely superb music—mostly courtesy of Jan.

One evening we walked into the foothills of the Black Forest to watch the sunset. I found it very moving to ponder the history this city has seen, and to think that—no matter how long I stayed—I’d experience just a tiny sliver of it. Old cities put your life in perspective, that way.

But of all the things I did in Freiburg, my favorite moments came when Jan and I experienced each others’ worlds. I loved handing him one of my cameras and watching him shoot.

He’s a great photographer, actually. While reviewing my photos, I loved that we’d both “seen” many of the same things—but at different times, and with different perspectives. Here’s an example, with his image first:

And I loved singing along with him on a few songs—especially James Taylor’s Fire and Rain. I started crying at the very first line, “Just yesterday morning they let me know you were gone …” We both understood the significance.

But I’m still here … and I still get to see Freiburg … and I really do hope to see you one more time, Jan. I cherish your friendship. And I’ve cherished my time with you in Freiburg, too.

Back to Paris tomorrow …

Filed under: Friends and family, Paris, Photography, Psychology, Travel   |  14 Comments
Tags: Freiburg im Briesgau, Jan Gregersen, Paris, Paris photography, Travel